XC Racer Part IV - the Build

With all the bits in stock and some optional extras added all was ready for the build.  First in was the seatpost so that the frame could then be mounted on my workstand.  I'm a big fan of Park Tools and Topeak, and while I looked at and tried several workstands, the Topeak PrepStand™ Elite was the model I chose, it's well built, easy to use, super strong and works well on rough surfaces.

Topeak PrepStand™ Elite

http://www.topeak.com/products/Repair-Stands/prepstandelite

Once mounted I could get the crankset installed, this being my first experience of BB30 I did my homework, I'd bought my crankset on eBay so found the installation instructions online.  All was simple enough, particularly as the bearings were already pressed into the frame so the remaining installation was similar to Shimano Hollowtech II and Sram Mega Exo external type bearings.

If you are looking for instructions for installation those for the FSA Afterburner BB30 cranks can be found here:

https://www.bike-components.de/bedienungsanleitungen/2011/fsa/atb/mtb_bb30_detailed_instructions.pdf

During installation I noted that the captive nut that fixes the left hand crank arm onto the spindle looked worn or damaged with much of the flat "top had" section crumbled away so only loosely tightened this up.  I continued work as I would not be riding the bike straight away but made a note to check this when I tightened up the crankset to the correct torque setting.

Frame mounted in the workstand

BB30 Afterburner Cranks Fitted

Please excuse the glamorous location - with a very young baby you take your chances to make workshop space and time where you can!

Next I fitted the forks, stem and handlebars - fortunately the headset bearings were also already pressed in so this was simply a case of fitting enough spacers and tightening everything up.  I fitted the spacers under the stem for now, I'll sort the geometry once the bike is finished.  Next to go on were the brakes, my original plan was to run a 160mm disc up front and a 140mm on the rear to keep things lightweight and as I would expect that to be enough power with the XX brakes.  After checking the rear brake mount is 160mm minimum, and as I only had one of each size of disc, I went for 180mm front with a 20mm caliper spacer and 160mm rear.

Front brake lever fitted - grey marks on the bars wipe off

Rear brake lever, front shifter and Poplock Control

Front Brake with 20mm calliper spacer and 180mm disc

Rear brake with calliper mount inside chain and seat stay and 160mm disc

While fitting the brake discs I also prepared the wheels by fitting the cassette and the tyres.  Once complete I will be running the tyres tubeless but to get the bike rolling and help seat the tubeless tyres I removed the tubeless valves and fitted the Schwalbe Rocket Ron's with a pair of Continental tubes and inflated them to the maximum 50psi to fit the bead tightly to the rim, this will help seat the tyres when I fit them tubeless.

Next came the gears, I picked up a set of Clark's sealed inner and outer cables, mounted the shifters and rear dérailleur and ran into my second concern.  The SLX front dérailleur I had in stock from my old groupset was a low mount type, and the form of the seat tube where it meets the bottom bracket area of the frame is much wider than on a conventional tubed frame and this type of dérailleur simply won't fit.

Some time on eBay showed that there wasn't much to be saved going used and with an XT rear mech already installed I managed to find an XT front mech for £17.25 from High Altitude Bikes.

Shimano FD-M771 Front Derailieur

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360969468350

The new front mech fitted very easily, following the installation instructions for the torque on the clamp bolt, aligning the cage to be parallel to the chainrings and ensuring that the outer cage plate was 1mm above the big chainring teeth.

Front Dérailleur Fitted

Rear Dérailleur

With the deraillieurs fitted it was time to run the cables, fit the handlebar grips, set all the handlebar controls to the correct angle and spacing.  For angle the general consensus is that the line of your forearm should line through the brake levers when viewed from the side.  For the grips, shifters and PopLock lever I followed the manufacturers recommendations and my own preference for look.

Last but not least were the pedals which are Shimano entry level SPD and get some pictures of the finished result in all it's glory.

I'll save those for a final reveal with all the build spec.